"I address you all tonight for who you truly are: wizards, mermaids, travellers, adventurers, and magicians. You are the true dreamers."
Brian Selznick
The Invention of Hugo Cabret
During the May 24th, 2015 weekend, while sitting around a campfire in Greens Harbour, June Mason indicated that it would be a bucket-list trip to "get-away somewhere nice for Christmas". So we did, and in the wee hours of December 24th 2015, Melanie, June & Gary Mason, Don Peddle and myself headed for a quick Christmas holiday to......
Madeira Island
Portugal
Madeira, an autonomous region of Portugal, is an archipelago comprising 4 islands (801 sq.km.) off the northwest coast of Africa that were settled in the 1400s. But only two islands, Madeira and Porto Santo, are inhabited. The former is the center of cultural and civic life (and home to Funchal, the capital), while the latter has a beautiful six-mile-long beach that draws sun-loving tourists. It’s known for its namesake wine and warm, subtropical climate. Popular outdoor pursuits include hiking along old levadas (aqueducts) in the mountains, golfing, surfing and scuba diving. Madeira Island itself is an "Eden" of abundant greenery: bananas, mangoes, orchids and bougainvilleas blossom in the rich soil of an old volcano 310 miles off the coast of Morocco (though technically, the island belongs to Portugal). With a stunning 99 miles of coastline, craggy hiking trails galore and the world's largest fireworks show, this sounded like the place to go......so we did!!!
Day 1: Christmas Eve (Dec. 24, 2015) - we arrived on Madeira Island late on Christmas Eve and with all hands being tired after the red-eye from St. John's, we decided to stick close to home and get an early night.....
 |
| We rented a three bedroom villa for about $120 per night and it is about 1/2 way between the old city and new touristy hotel area......perfect! |
 |
| A view of the front of the villa! |
Day 2: Christmas Day (Dec. 25, 2015) - After a good night's rest and breakfast we decided to explore this beautiful town.....
 |
| We walked down to the Marina (7 minutes) and strolled along the 'Avenida do Mar e das Comunidades'.......first stop is the Principality of Pontinha. So what's that you ask? Well it's that rock just passed the swimming pool. And why is this important you ask? Because it is the world's smallest country!! ....... |
 |
| ....Originally established in 1419, this 178 sq. metre rock on October 9th 1903, was when the then King D. Carlos I of Portugal signed a Regal Letter (the original is kept in the Tower of London) that stated that the territory of the said Principality of the Pontinha, a rock where the Fort of Saint José is located (the only building of the Principality), shall be sovereign. In 2007 the principality succeeded completely from Portugal to form it's own country. |
 |
| Although the Principality officially has 4 citizens, all we saw was a large population of ferrel cats and one lone Sanity Claus! |
 |
| Melanie was planning a coup to take the Principality over and place herself on the throne, but first, we have to find the throne! |
We leave the Principality behind us and take a few minutes to size up the Santa Maria......
 |
| The Santa Maria, a replica of Christopher Columbus's Flag Ship, is docked next to the Portuguese Navy (a kind of old meets new scenario). In 1481 good ole Chris moved to Madeira before setting out to discover America in 1492. Today, if one was so inclined, you can do a 3 hour sail around Madeira on this rather small cork-like vessel (and we did.....later)! |
We continue on up the coast via the promenade.....
 |
| The long Avenida do Mar e das Comunidades, a seaside promenade, is packed with tourist from the cruise ships and hawkers selling their wares. |
After walking the entire length of the Avenida do Mar e das Comunidades we head into the old town of......
Funchal
Funchal is the largest city, the municipal seat and the capital of Portugal's Autonomous Region of Madeira. The city has a population of 111,892, making it the 6th largest city in Portugal, and has been the capital of Madeira for more than five centuries. Because of its high cultural and historical value, Funchal is one of Portugal's main tourist attractions. It is also popular as a destination for New Year's Eve, and it is the leading Portuguese port on cruise liner dockings.
 |
| Old Funchal with its narrow streets..... |
 |
| .....and surprisingly, this ancient capital of Madeira, has some wide boulevards as well! |
 |
| No your eyes are not deceiving you, there was a busker creating these giant bubbles......now the trick is to catch one! |
 |
| Taxi's line up in front of the Christmas themed gardens in central Funchal. |
 |
| "Now boys and girls, you tell Sanity Claus what you both want for Christmas....ho ho ho!" |
 |
| Três exploradores! |
Later that night we go for a superb Christmas meal at a 4-star restaurant......
 |
| No Christmas turkey in this part of the world....... |
 |
| .....but flaming Christmas pudding is on the menu! |
Later that night on the way home.......
 |
| "OK everyone, on the count of three, strike the Diving Man pose!" |
 |
| See what three bottles of wine will do to you!!! |
Day 3: Boxing Day - Not surprisingly everyone is a wee bit under the weather today with movement being slow and painful. So slowly and painfully we make our way back down to Old Funchal....
 |
| Slowly and painfully we weave ourselves thru the old streets of Funchal. |
 |
| The sights and sounds of an old city during Christmas in a very temperate climate! |
 |
| I love the way they do their side streets here. Every street has a different pattern of white and black inlaid stones. |
 |
| There is only one way to cure a hangover....right Gary! |
 |
| This being Christmas season I expect that these Madeirian residents don't dress this way normally. Love the silly pointed hats! |
 |
| Here we are doing my favourite sport.......drinking beer in an outdoor cafe and people watching. |
Later that night......
 |
| Our rented villa has a 'games room' in the basement, so what better way to end a night but to have a game of pool. Gary put on his best pool pants and took on Minnesota Don in a game of eight-ball. |
Day 4: Dec. 27, 2015. Today Don, Melanie and myself decide that we will do the Monte Palace Tropical Gardens that hug the cliffs high above Funchal.....but first we have to get there and that requires heading back into the old town......
 |
| It's the red carpet treatment for us! |
 |
| We stop at an outdoor cafe for a small lunch and to do some people watching. The 'people' we ended up watching is street musician extraordinaire Juan Caldarado....think George Benson style of jazz infused latino music. How good was he? So good I bought his double CD!! |
The Monte Palace Gardens are accessible via a cable car which takes approximately 15 minutes, is 3,718 m (around 12,000 ft) long and has a vertical rise of 560 m (1,837 ft).....
 |
| Funchal falls away below us. |
 |
| The highest tower is 39 metres but it's built on the edge of a cliff overlooking the valley far far below, thus giving the sense that one is much higher! Well actually one is much higher! |
After 15 minutes in the gondola we reach the....
Monte Palace Gardens
This historical Madeira garden that has its origins back to the 18th century, can be found on the sloping land of the Monte. This 70 000 m² garden is a perfect example of the luxuriant mixture of tropical and indigenous plants. The garden is also famous for having the largest collection of cycads (think fern-like plants) in the world, with every variety possible, some 60 out of 72 species, mostly from South Africa. There is about 100 000 different species of plants here with a section that is reserved for the local species from the Laurislva forest, with some nearly extinct species known as the Mocanu. This Madeira garden is set around fountains and lakes filled with koi fish and also has an art museum with a very interesting collection.
 |
| So this rich dude (José Manuel Rodrigues Berardo) decided back in 1987 to buy and turn the old derelict hotel and surrounding gardens into a work of art......and being a gardener myself I can say he accomplished what he set out to do. What a beautiful place! |
 |
| During a trip to China and Japan, the rich dude (José Berardo) became enchanted by their history, culture and way of life and by the influence of the Portuguese on the Orient. As such, he created two oriental gardens in an attempt to recreate that culture. |
 |
| Buddha and the babe! |
 |
| The many ponds found throughout the grounds are filled with huge koi fish. At this particular spot you can look thru a glass into the actual pond....hence the reflection of us three in the picture. Cool or what?!?!? |
 |
| This "lake" was built in 1904 when the 'palace' was a hotel. |
 |
| Another view of the "lake". Hard pressed to call it a lake, in fact it would be hard to even refer to it as a pond but it certainly looked pretty! |
 |
| Built in 1897, the palace-like residence was inspired by the palaces that sit on the margins of the Rhine River in Germany. It was later converted into a Hotel named the "Monte Palace Hotel". |
 |
| Aaaaah some sweet! |
 |
| One of the most interesting characteristics of the Monte Palace Tropical Garden is the existence of a large collection of tile panels placed along the walkways and amongst the vegetation acquired by José Berardo. This collection, considered to be one of the most important in the country, is made up of Hispano-Moorish tiles of the 15th and 16th centuries and panels produced in Portugal from the 19th century....and now you know! |
 |
| Not to be out-done by the tile panels is the impressive collection of art works from various parts of the world dating back as far as the second century A.D...... |
 |
| .....including many bronze statues from the 20th century by artists such as James Butler. |
Later that night we decide to get a little culture into our lives, so we went to a concert at the local Arts & Culture Centre.....
 |
| Established in 1936 this is the world's oldest Mandolin Orchestra, but don't expect jigs and reels here, it was Strauss, Mozart and other classics all the way. Were they good? Nope....they were friggin great! The youngest members were twins at 9 years old......amazing!! |
Day 5: Dec. 28, 2015 - It rained off and on today, so we decided to just lay low and recharge our batteries, sip a little wine and plan the next day.
Day 6: Dec. 29, 2015 - Today; Don, Melanie and myself trek up to the highest mountain (named Pico Ruivo) on this mountainous island.
 |
| This hike isn't for the faint-hearted, or for those without a head for heights. It starts at Pico do Arieiro ('Pico' means mountain) which sits high above the clouds at 1822 MASL. |
 |
| Melanie stares out into the cloud shrouded horizon. |
 |
| Ridge walking between the two mountains.......dramatic drops and craggy cliffs are our reward on this 12km trek. |
 |
| On these exposed ridges the wind is howling.....enough to blow you over! |
 |
| The path is very well maintained with appropriate wire rails to keep one from straying beyond the point of no return. |
 |
| And it's down down we go. |
 |
| The trail descends 250 metres before it levels out, however with no real level places in which to level out on, one was constructed right into the side of the cliff. |
 |
| Cliff hugging and for the taller of us, some head smacking! |
 |
| The trail has four tunnels that you must go thru before starting the arduous trek up to Madeira's highest peak. |
 |
| Crap......the 300 metre climb starts here. |
 |
| I hate steps. Works up a good sweat though! |
 |
| Huffing and puffing we make our way to the top! |
 |
| Tada.....1867 metres. Another mountain to cross off our list!!! |
 |
| The view from the top. Notice the village in the valley far far below. |
 |
| We head back down and onwards to our pick-up site 4kms away! |
Day 7: Dec. 30, 2015 - We get out of Dodge and take a private tour of the northern portion of the island.
First stop, an arial view of the fishing village of Camara de Lobos....
 |
| Literally translated Camara de Lobos means 'chamber of the wolves'. Apparently when the island was discovered in 1419, there was a large population of monk seal established in the cove and the Portuguese called them sea wolves. |
 |
| Next stop is the top of that there hill. |
Our private tour takes us next to Cabo Girao.....
 |
| Cabo Girão is a lofty sea cliff located along the southern coast of the island and is the second highest sea cliff in the world at 589 metres. That's over a 1/2 kilometre straight down! |
 |
| Cabo Girão is a popular lookout point, especially after a glass-floored viewing platform was installed in October 2012. |
We continue our journey to the village of Ribeira Brava.....
 |
| The local church in Ribeira Brava was constructed sometime in the 15th century. |
 |
| Ribeira Brava (translated....'wild stream') is a small town on the southwest coast of the island. The town boasts many street cafés and shops and is certainly the place to spend a few hours taking in the sights and sounds. |
And now we head up through a lush valley region to the mountain pass of Encumeada at 1007mts, unfortunately the pass was shrouded in mist, however for a brief few minutes the mist cleared.....
 |
| It was cold, misty and windy at the Encumeada pass, but the mist did lift long enough for us to get a quick glance at our next destination. |
We leave the pass behind us and head for the northwest coast of Madeira and the village of Porto Moniz......
 |
| Porto Moniz, a small beautiful village basking in the hot sun (it was 24C when we were there). |
 |
| Porto Moniz is famous for its natural swimming pools and its pure, beautiful scenery. The natural swimming pools at Porto Moniz surround large and small rocks nestling in the sea. Unfortunately we didn't bring any swimming gear so we could only walk around and wish! |
 |
| The pools have been made accessible by walkways and concrete paths. |
 |
| Looking down from one of the lava rocks into the crystal clear 22C natural pool of South Atlantic ocean. |
 |
| The pools are constantly replenished by the crashing waves! |
 |
| I didn't bring my swimming gear, at least I can go clamouring around on the rocks! |
 |
| The old fort of Sj João Baptista, built in 1730 to fight the pirates, was recovered and transformed into an Aquarium. |
 |
| We walked up to the other lava pools (in the background) but they were closed today due to the large seas. |
We leave Porto Moniz and head down the coast before crossing over the mountains again and onwards back to Funchal....
 |
| The 'old road' before Mother Nature took it out with a piece of the cliff giving away! |
Day 8: New Years Eve - The day started out with Don, Melanie and myself taking a three hour boat ride on the Santa Maria.....
 |
| On the way to the Santa Maria we passed these dudes. No idea what they were doing, where they were going, why they were where they were.....they just seemed to be standing around. |
 |
| Waiting to board! |
 |
| Heading out of the Funchal harbour. Notice the cruise ships....there are 11 of them in total and they are all here for this evening's New Years Eve fireworks. |
 |
| "Ever been to sea Billy?" "Aaargh....keep still parrot or I'll have you for supper......aaargh" |
 |
| Imagine crossing the South Atlantic on the Santa Maria. 30+ men sailing towards the unknown while all along they believed that they would eventually sail right off the edge of the world. And this estate room was their only sanctuary from the elements. |
 |
| Cheers matey to being borne 500 years later! |
Later that evening we go for our New Year's Eve meal before the PAR-TEE begins!
 |
| Our last meal of the year!! |
After our very delicious meal we head for Funchal's waterfront to ring in the new year properly......
 |
| When we left our restaurant there were very few people around, they had all parked their cars wherever they could and headed for the old city, and we were doing the same thing! |
 |
| By the time we got to the old city, the streets were packed with party goers! |
 |
| We stake our place at the waterfront, grab four bottles of champagne from the local vendors, and proceed to PAR-TEE!!! |
 |
| All kinds of people, including Echo the Bunnyman! |
 |
| Getting ready to sing Auld Lang Syne, is the Madeira Chamber Choir: from right to left; Soprano's June and Melanie, Portuguese interpreter Denise, Baritone Don, and Choir Master B. |
10....9....8....7....6....5.....4....3.....2.....1......HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
 |
| Madeira's most impressive fireworks are during the New Year’s Eve celebrations, which hold the Guinness World Record (2007) for the largest fireworks display. |
 |
| The fireworks were going off all around us......on the other side of the pier, above the cruise ships, up in the hills, behind me, in front of me, even reflecting off the water! |
 |
| OOH HOO! |
 |
| The newspaper headlines will read the next day...."Thousands are in awe at Madeira's Fireworks Display"......at least that's what I think they should say, of course I have no idea what they said because they're in Portuguese. |
 |
"This magic moment
So different and so new....."
The Drifters This Magic Moment
|
 |
| Okay Mel grab another bottle of wine and let's get down and boogie!! |
 |
| New year's party animals!! Now that's what I'm talking bout!! |
 |
What a year! What a way to end it! What a way to begin it too!
A small video of the fireworks.
If you can't see this video it is because your machine does not support the software.
A small video of the partiers!
If you can't see this video it is because your machine does not support the software. |
 |
| Hell of a way to start the year off! |
Hope you enjoyed the show!!!
*****
We loved Madeira Island so much that we decided to return a couple of years later (mid-December, 2017 - mid-January, 2018) for a reunion. This time we were rejoined by Gary & June, Don & Denise, and newcomers David & Kerri and Terry & Pam. The following is an account of that trip.
*****
A daily activity for us was to stroll into old-town Funchal and do some exploring.....
 |
| Market Day brings out both the locals & tourists. |
 |
| And someone shouted out: "There's free beer over here!" |
 |
| I love Funchal. While it is a 21st century European city, it still retains it's old world charm. |
 |
| June checking out the fare on this narrow restaurant-lined street. |
 |
| If it's food that interest you, nothing beats the steak-on-a-hot-stone experience that is offered by many restaurants in Funchal. |
 |
| David & Kerri checking out St. John Evangelist College Church which was built by the Jesuits in 1629. |
 |
| Like all the old churches around here, the inside is even more stunning than the outside. |
 |
| Having a brew at the infamous Hole-in-One Pub. |
 |
| A view from the end of Funchal looking back at the cruise ship port. |
 |
| It being the Christmas season, the streets were constantly filled with partiers (and a tall guy)! |
 |
| Standing inside one of the many Christmas Light-Trees......cool hey! |
 |
| Heading back home after a night at the fado when suddenly Melanie does her famous pirouette! Good job Mel. |
To the serious trekker, Madeira Island is famous for their levada walks. A levada is an irrigation channel or aqueduct and they are used to bring water from the wet side of the island to the dry side. Melanie and I checked out an urban one that was only five minutes from our villa.
 |
| You don't have to duck Mel, you're not that tall. |
 |
| The levada eventually leaves Funchal behind as it winds itself up into the mountains. |
 |
| The levada hugs the side of the hill with banana orchards hugging the other side. |
 |
| We encountered joggers, hikers and even the scattered motorcyclist on this urban levada. |
On another day we hiked the seashore promenade....
 |
| Mel looks down at the natural lava water pools before heading for the pebbly beach in the background. |
 |
| Someone climbed up on that rocky outcrop and stuck a cross on it....cool. Just some of the sights along the way. |
 |
| In order to get to the beach we had to walk through a rather lengthly tunnel. "Hey Mel is there an echo here.....Hey Mel is there an echo here.....Hey Mel is there an echo here....." |
 |
| The final resting place for the good ship Inda. |
 |
| The Swan Neck Agave plant makes the perfect frame for the fishing boat. |
We took a bus into the interior to hike Curral das Freiras ('Nuns Valley'), a small parish nestling between almost perpendicular mountains.....
 |
| Eira do Serrado viewpoint, an excellent location to contemplate the magnificent views of the Nun's Valley. |
 |
| As history recalls, Curral das Freiras was once used as a refuge for the nuns of the Convent of Santa Clara who fled Funchal and sought protection in this inaccessible valley from the invasion of French Lutheran Pirates. Hence the name “Nun´s Valley”. It's a long way down....355mts to be exact! |
 |
| The selfie miesters on this beautiful day. |
 |
| The gravity trail from the top to the bottom takes about a hour to hike. |
 |
| The 'old road' leading to Curral das Freiras. A newer road and tunnel now connets this isolated valley with the rest of Madeira Island. |
 |
| Walking into Curral das Freiras..... |
 |
| ....and to celebrate a feed of the locally grown chestnuts along with our beer!!!! |
Of course, we were here for another New Years celebration......
 |
| The last supper with (L - R) Kerri, David, Gary, June, Don, Denise, Moi, Melanie, Pam (sorry Pam you got cheated in this picture, blame it on Terry!!), and Terry. |
 |
| Another wild-n-wicked New Year's Eve celebration on the waterfront of Funchal!! |
 |
| In the event of separation we all agreed to meet under the giant Christmas Light-Tree! |
 |
| From our perch we had a perfect view of the concert taking place on the stage and this happy couple! |
 |
| ....and the last picture goes to the Mason's standing inside the Christmas Light-Tree on Funchal harbour-front New Year's Eve 2018!!! |
Cheers.....
