Central America: Guatemala 2005

"The purpose of life is to live it, to taste new experiences to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experiences."

Eleanor Roosevelt

This is the continuing account of my 2005 trip to the Central American countries of Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Guatemala and Belize (see other postings in this series).

On March 28, 2005, I fly from Nicaragua (see Part 2 of this series) to the.....

Republic of Guatemala

Guatemala is the heart of the Mayan world.  It is a beautiful and mystical land.  The highland Maya, living amid breathtaking mountain scenery, closely guard their ancient customs and ways of life.  Splendid pageantry marks holidays and festivals, and weekly markets blaze with vividly colourful traditional costumes.  Distinctions between the indigenous and European descendants, and between traditional and modern culture and commerce, have marked the country since the days of the Conquistadors.

 

I fly into Guatemala City but immediately hop on a shuttle for the old city of......

Antigua

Nestled between three volcanoes, Antigua is among the oldest and most beautiful cities in the Americas.  Its majestic setting, cobblestone streets, crumbling ruins and sprays of bougainvillea bursting from terra-cotta roofs charm even the most worldly traveller!  

***Please note the image quality is limited as these pictures were not digitally captured but rather are prints that have been scanned.***

The streets of Antigua.  Notice the hazy image of Volcan Agua in the background. 

The Parque Central is the gathering place for locals and visitors alike.  On most days the plaza  is lined with villagers selling handicrafts to tourists; on Sunday it is mobbed and the streets on the east and west sides are closed to traffic.  The plaza's famous fountain was built in 1738. 

Mayan man walking in the park.  Notice the machete strapped to his waist!! 

The Arco de Santo Catarina was built in 1694.  The arch, spanning Avenida Norte, was one of the few structures in town that withstood a serious earthquake in 1773.

The Palacio del Ayuntamiento (town hall) on the north side of the Parque Central was built in 1743.  The horse drawn coaches offer guided tours of Antigua.

The Iglesia y Convento de Nuestra Senora de La Merced, Antigua's most striking colonial church.  La Merced's construction began in 1548.

Inside La Merced is a fountain 27 metres in diameter - said to be the largest in Central America.

Antigua's local laundry mat!

Mayan women carry everything on their heads....no exceptions.  One of the first thing you notice here is that the Mayan people are small in physical stature.  Also they still dress as their ancestors did and they still eat corn, corn, and more corn.

The next day I rent a mountain bike and guide and we head out into the area around Antigua known as the......

Lost Valley

The Almonga Valley (AKA: Lost Valley) was home to the 1st capital of Guatemala, Ciudad Viejo (AKA: Old City).  The Old City met a fateful doom in 1541 as a result of a mudslide released from the crater of Volcan Agua.  The Valley, although close to Antigua, receives very few tourists and the best way to see it i by bicycle. 

San Pedro Las Huertas overlooking the "Lost Valley".   Why they call it the 'Lost Valley' is a mystery to me as there is nothing lost about it!!  

One of the things you quickly notice is the over-abundance of old ruins of churches.  They are all over the Lost Valley.  

One of the many villages I passed thru during my bike ride.

School's out!!!  Kids block my way (notice the removable Stop sign) during recess.  We had to wait it out until they finished playing impromptu soccer.

This is BIG time Mayan country and the hand-woven traditional tapestries are the BIG cottage industry.  Here two Mayan women work their magic on weaving machines that are as old as time itself.

A fine old baroque church in the "Old City".  Stunningly beautiful and so white I had to squint to look at it!

Two things:  (1) I haven't been on a bike in over two years (2) the word 'valley' does not mean flat.!! 

The next day I board a chicken bus for the 3 1/2 hour ride up into the mountains through the clouds via hair-raising switchbacks and hairpin turns to the Mayan market town of......

Chichicastenango

Surrounded by valleys, with nearby mountains looming overhead, Chichicastenango seems isolated from the rest of Guatemala.  When its narrow cobbled streets and red tiled roofs are enveloped in mists, it seems magical.

Mayan traders from outlying villages come to Chichi for the Thursday and Sunday markets, which is considered the largest indigenous market in Guatemala.

The Mayan traders come to Chichi on Wednesday and Saturday evenings.  You'll see them carrying bundles on long poles up the narrow cobbled street to the town square, then laying down their loads and spreading out blankets to cook dinner and sleep in the arcades surrounding the square.  Just after dawn on Sunday and Thursday, the poles are erected into stalls which are hung with cloth, furnished with tables piled high with goods for sale.

The centre of the square is devoted to things the villagers want and need.....vegetables and fruit, baked goods, etc.

And you thought Walmart got crowded!

Deep in the bowels of the market.  Only Mayan venture into this part of the market to buy their daily needs.  Nothing here for the average tourist except photo-opportunities!

I love the colours of this place!

Not sure what this is, but me thinks it's salted shrimp?!?!

Although dedicated to the Catholic rite, this simple church, the Iglesia de Santo Tomas (dating from about 1540), is more often the scene of rituals that are only slightly Catholic and more distinctly Mayan.  The front steps to the church serve much the same purpose as did the great flights of steps leading up the Mayan pyramids.  For much of the day the steps smoulder with copal incense , while indigenous prayer leaders swing censors containing balsom incense and chant magical words in honour of the ancient Mayan calendar and of their ancestors.

Inside of the Iglesia de Santo Tomas the floor is spread with pine boughs and dotted with offerings of corn,  flowers and bottles of liquor; candles are everywhere.  Many of the local families can trace their lineage back centuries; some even to the ancient kings of Quiche.  The caddles and offerings on the floor are in remembrance of the ancestors, many of whom are buried beneath the church floors just as Mayan kings are buried beneath the pyramids (unfortunately photography is not permitted in the church).

So what does a person do while sitting on the steps of the church?  Why get his boots shined, of course!!

The next day I sign up to climb........

Volcan Pacaya

Because of its status as the only active volcano near Antigua, Pacaya attracts the most tourist and most bandits.  The situation is improving, still, climbers are more likely to be hurt by flaming rocks and sulphurous fog than criminals.  Climbers have suffered serious, even fatal injuries when the volcano erupts unexpectedly while they are near the summit.  At 2565 metres, Pacaya was upgraded in 2000 to Orange Status.

Volcan Pacaya would take us three hours to climb.....straight up a mountain that made noises.....loud rumbling noises like she's about to blow and high hissing noises.   And STINK, wholly Lord did she ever stink.   Most bizarre!

"OK I'm ready!  Bring her on I say.....right on"

My climbing mates resting before the truly difficult climb begins.  You can see how steep the slopes are starting at this point! 

The higher we climbed the warmer the ground got.  True story!  There were so many gas vents on the mountain that the steam and gases being released actually heated the ground.

The Happy Volcaners:  Moi, our guide Raol, Victoria & Steve (American's) and Kim (Canadian).  Here the ground was very warm and after 10 minutes I could feel the heat coming thru the soles of my boots.  Behind us stands one of the two cones within the crater.

Pacaya's second cone (and the farthest from the crater lip) constantly spit red rock and stone out of its top vent.   

Safety regulations are non-existent in Guatemala, as we could walk right up to the crater lip.  

The larger and closer cone has a vent near the top with lava and sulfuric gases spewing out (you can just barely notice the red hole at the top in this picture).

After spending a day climbing a 2565 metre volcano, the next day I decided to up the challenge and climb......

Volcan Acatenango

The dormant Volcan Acatenango is Guatemala's 3rd highest volcano and weighs in at 3985 metres.  Acatenango is joined with the much more active Volcan Fuego (3763 metres) and is collectively known as La Horqueta.  It's a 6 hour energy sapping exercise in breathing to slog up to the crater and 2 more knee-breaking hours to get back down....

There are five temperate zones on the slopes of Acatenango:  (1) lowland pasture (2) rain forest (due to cloud coverage) (3) mountain pine forest (4) alpine meadow (5) lava scree. 

The cloud engulfed rain forest of Acatenango.  Everything is dripping wet....that misty yucky crap that seems to penetrate every part of you. 

The super rich volcanic soil and a constant water supply enable some of the trees on Acatenango to get quite large indeed!

We finally walk out of the clouds and Acatenango reveals herself! 

The last torturous 200 metres was up loose lava scree....the worst mountain trekking material in the world.  It's akin to walking on marbles: Take 3 steps up, slide back down 2 steps.....stop....take 3 gulps of air (feels like 2)....take 3 steps up, slide back down 2 steps...etc etc.

My climbing mate (Andrew from Canada) and I summit Acatenango.   

Acatenango's barren crater.
Even though Acatenango is dormant, there were plenty of steam vents around, so we were able to warm our hands up.....at this altitude it was quite chilly.

Andrew and our guide (with his trusty mutt) are silhouetted across the crater with just the hint of Volcan Fuego poking up.

Volcan Fuego from our view.  This volcano is much more active than Acatenango and we were not allowed to climb it due to recent rumbling.

The distant Volcan Agua pokes through the clouds.

After a few days in Antigua I decided to head for........

Lake Atitlan

One of the most spectacular locales in Central America, Lago de Atitlan is a caldera filled lake with shimmering waters to a maximum depth of more than 320 metres.  The lake covers an area of 128 sq. kms. and is surrounded by three powerful volcanoes - Volcan Toliman (3158m), Volcan Atitlan (3537m) and Volcan San Pedro (3020m) - that loom over the lake.

The lake is often still and beautiful early in the day, however by noon the Xocomil, a southeasterly wind, may have risen to ruffle the surface, sometimes violently, making it a tough crossing for the small water taxis that ply these waters. 

The small wharf just down from my cabana on the lake looking out at Volcan Tomliman and Volcan Atitlan.  After taking this picture I laid down my camera and made a mad dash for the end of the wharf and jumped into 22C crystal clear water......some good!! 

A family works near the lake (notice the two dugout canoes on the shore).

A shoreline fisherman cleans a fish that he had just speared.  I went scuba diving in the lake, it was interesting for the volcanic steam vents in the lake's muddy bottom.

 The next day I walk along the shoreline up to the village of 

Santa Cruz la Laguna

Lonely Planet describes this village as follows:  'Another peaceful lakeside village, Santa Cruz features a vibe somewhere between the party scene of San Pedro and the spritual feel of San Marcos.  the main part of the village is up the hill from the dock; the hotels are on the shore.'

Santa Cruz la Laguna comes into view.

There is one truck in the village, unfortunately the road becomes to narrow for it to enter the town, therefore all goods have to be physically carried to the final destination.  Here three young boys carry cases of pop up the steep road.

After spending some time around Lake Atitlan it was time to move on.  My next destination is a full day away by chicken bus but I arrive in time to hook up with my tour company for a 4 day river trip down the Rio Dulce river......

Livingston via Rio Dulce

This four day trip would be aboard the 46 foot Polynesian-style catamaran the Las Sirenas.  We start in the community of Rio Dulce and head for El Golfete a part of Lago de Izabel, Guatemala's largest lake before re-entering the Rio Dulce for the final leg to the village of Livingston.  An interesting anomaly, Livingston is a laid back Caribbean community surrounded by groves of coconut palms, gaily painted wooden buildings and an economy based on fishing and tourism.

My bed for the next four nights.  Just enough room for me to squeeze into.  Given that I am claustrophobic I had to sleep with the hatchway open.

We boarded the Las Sirenas at 3:00PM  and immediately set sail for El Golfete.  Almost immediately we passed the old Spanish fort El Castillo de San Felipe.

Sailing the Ef Golfete!

When we stopped for the day, Cookie prepared fresh caught fish soup for supper.....truly delicious! 

Immediately upon dropping anchor, the kids start to come out in their dugout canoes.  Some of them barely old enough to walk, yet they travel these waterways like we walk the streets back home.  No life jackets, safety seats or regulations here......our kids are so sheltered back home.

Taking the kayak board out for a paddle.  It was all good until we saw the water snake!

At one part of the trip we pulled into a tributary of the Rio Dulce.  This was an opportunity to see real Guatemala life without the ever present tourist. 

Homes of local fishermen.  No televised shows of Survivor here.  This is the real thing!

At another time we headed for the lake's north side of Finca El Parasio.  At the Finca we walked to an incredibly beautiful spot in the jungle where a wide, hot waterfalls drops about 12 metres into a clear, deep pool.  We bathed in the hot water coming from the falls, swam in the cool pools and hung out under the over-hanging promontory to enjoy a natural jungle-style sauna.....it was very hot. 

Entering the Rio Dulce proper.  Shortly after this we enter the  steep-walled gorge called Cueva de la Vaca with its walls hung with great tangles of jungle foliage and bromeliads.  The netting you see on the front of the catamaran is actually used as a bed by one of the intrepid travellers sailing with us.  Given the size of my accommodations, this open area looks real good! 

Livingston - the community is only reachable by boat.  We spent about three hours wandering around this hot and interesting anomaly in Guatemala.  This community is english only in name, otherwise it is like any other Caribbean community.....laid back man!

After four days of relaxation on the catamaran, Las Sirenas, I grab a chicken bus for........

Flores

Flores, the capital of the province of Peten, is built on an island in Lago de Peten Itza with a  500m causeway connecting it to the mainland.  Its church sits atop a hill in the island's centre and the narrow streets are lined with charming red-roofed houses and gives one the impression of being on a Greek island as opposed to being in the middle of Central America.

Flores, situated on the Lago de Peten Itza, is known as the gateway to the Mayan ruins of Tikal.

The menu from the restaurant Casa Rayo de Sol where I had jungle rat for supper!!!

After a day in Flores I hop on another chicken bus.  Let me explain the difference between a regular "luxury" bus and a third world "chicken" bus:  
1) Luxury buses have 40 seats and they are assigned to 40 people......chicken buses have 40 seats and they take 80 plus people.
2) Luxury buses have no critters......chicken buses have among other critters, chickens.
3) Luxury buses play no music......chicken buses seem to have a music genre all to themselves (something similar to 1969 Mexican music), ususally on blast.
4) Luxury buses make two stops (the one at the beginning of the journey and the one at the end).......chicken buses stop to pick up whomever happens to be standing on the side of the road.
5) Luxury buses have comfortable reclining seats........chicken buses are lucky to have seats.
6) Luxury buses have air conditioning.......chicken buses have......well they use to have, windows.
7) Luxury buses have a bathroom.......chicken buses smell like a bathroom.

......and now you know!!!  Regardless, the next day I head for the ancient ruins of........

Tikal

Towering pyramids rise above the jungle canopy to catch the sun.  Howler monkeys swing through the branches of ancient trees  as bright parrots and toucans dart from perch to perch.  When the complex warbling song of some mysterious bird tapers off, the buzz of tree frogs provides background noise.  Although Tikal's most strking feature is the architecture it's difference from other Mayan sites comes from being nestled in the jungle.  Its many plazas have been cleared of trees and vines, its temples uncovered and partially restored , but as you walk between the buildings you pass beneath the rain forest canopy.  Rich smells of earth and vegetation, peacefulness and animal noises contribute to the experience offered by no other readily accessible Mayan site.

It's not the pyramids of Egypt, nor is it Angor Wat in Cambodia, but it definitely rivals Ephesus of Turkey.  This massive site is said to contain 4000 buildings and once had 100,000 citizens.  Only about 200 structures have been uncovered and the place is huge.  It took all day to walk around it and to climb some of the temples.  It truly is amazing that a civilization that didn't have access to a wheel could construct such massive temples.

Temple I, known as the Temple of the Grand Jaquar, built for King Moon Double Comb in 734AD.  At the top of the 44 metre high temple is a small enclosure covered by a corbel led arch.

Within the Great Plaza area are two rows of stelae.  These served the purpose of recording the great deeds of the kings of Tikal, to sanctify their memory and to add 'power' to the surrounding temples and plazas.

Temple V is 58 metres high and located in the South Acropolis.   It dates back around 700AD and is different from the other great temples because it has rounded corners.  It is also very steep to get to the top!!! 

The Mayan rebuilt on top of older structures and this wall mask (about 3 metres high) was built before the time of Christ on one of the excavated older structures.

The ruins of Tikal lie within a 576 sq.km. reserve containing thousands of ancient structures.  The city's central area occupied 16 sq.km. and held more than 4000 structures. 

Tikal's greatness waned about 900AD, part of the mysterious general collapse of the lowland Mayan civilization.

I spent one full day wandering around this great complex and I only saw a small proportion of the many temples.

Much of the jungle has reclaimed the many structures that form part of Tikal.  However, the archaeologist (who have been working on the site since 1848) are slowly peeling back the centuries of growth. 

Another view of the massive Temple I.

Known as the Lost World, El Mundo Perdido, consist of 38 structures surrounding a huge pyramid (32 metres high and 80 metres wide).  Tunnels dug by archaeologists reveal four similar pyramids beneath the outer face; the earliest dates from 700BC, making this pyramid the oldest Mayan structure in Tikal. 

Damn tourist are everywhere!!!  This one was spotted standing on top of the El Mundo Perdido  pyramid!!

Well folks that's my trip to Guatemala.  The next day I board a chicken bus for the country of Belize and the continuing journey of Central America.  Check out my previous blogs and the other parts of this 2005 journey!!

Cheers......

DIARY ENTRY:  Tuesday March 29, 2005  11:28AM:  Left Granada yesterday (Monday 03/28/05)  after spending a quiet Sunday.  Flew into Guatemala City and immediately took a shuttle to Antigua.  This remarkable city is more original than Granada.  The colonial buildings are in remarkable shape with cobblestone streets and Mayan women in their traditional clothing, truly amazing, although I have to admit there is nothing cheap about this country so far.

One of the first things you notice about the place is the weather, it's the eternal spring!  Not like Granada where it became so damn hot at around 12:00, that you really had to stop and take a siesta until around 3:00.  Here I wear long sleeves and pants and I'm not perpetually sweating!

Today I'm basically getting orientated and acquainted with the place.  Last night I stayed at the Hotel Sin Ventura but at $25US it was too expensive and small (I had to be a contortionist just to use the bathroom).  So today I upgraded to the Hotel El Carmen and I plan on staying for 5 days.  From here I can do quite a lot and it is a good base, for instance, I booked a four day catamaran trip on the Rio Dulce.  For $175US I get a private cabin, 3 meals a day, etc....  It should be awesome.

Tomorrow if the weather permits I plan on climbing one of the two volcanoes that I want to climb.

DIARY ENTRY:  Wednesday March 30, 2005  1:05PM:  Got up early today to go for breakfast before my bike ride and the damn cafe doesn't open until 8:00AM.  What kinda country is this!

Last night I went to a Greek restaurant (only fitting as Greece was where I was three years ago today).  After that I went to Mono Loco's for a couple of beers.

We left Antigua on bicycle and headed up and up and up.  Although slow going we stuck mainly to trails and small dirt roads.  The last 100 metres to San Pedro was brutal and I had to walk my bike....just not enough steam in the legs to do it.  San Pedro is about  6 - 7 kilometres out of Antigua.  From there we were back downhill or flat for quite awhile (thank God).  We passed thru several small villages along the way, one of them was "Old City", apparently the first capital of Guatemala.  It has a fabulous church and I managed to get a picture of me in front of it.  After that we continued on, passing thru a school zone where the kids were out for recess.  We continued to descend and stopped at a macadamia  nut plantation, quite the impressive operation.  Onwards again, we proceeded until we came to San Antonio, a Mayan community.  Unfortunately after this we had to climb again....up and up and up.....about 2kms of hill!  But as the old saying goes: "what goes up must come down", and down we did.  Pass coffee plantations and farms and back to Antigua.

Time for a shower and a few minutes of relaxation.

DIARY ENTRY:  Thursday March 31, 2005  6:46PM:  Today I spent in Chichicastenango.  this market town is the largest Mayan market in Guatemala....and without a doubt it is large!  The bus ride there was 3 1/2 hours and we arrived at 10:30AM.  I purchased 3 or 4 items (wall hanging of Mayan calendar, mask and candle holder and 4 postcards).  By 12:30 I was finished and spent the rest of the time hanging out at the hotel drinking strong Guatemalan coffee.  One of the things I did that I hope I don't regret is eating in the market at a stall.  The food appeared cooked well enough but ya never know!!

The church in Chichi is catholic but it has very strong Mayan influences......one of the things that takes place is the locals burn incense in front of the church while praying.  Words cannot describe this but it was very powerful to watch.  

Checked my emails when I got back but had none.  I fear there may be problem with me receiving emails, as I strongly expect I would have received some.....damn.

DIARY ENTRY:  Friday April 1, 2005  4:16PM:  Just back and cleaned up from Volcano Pacaya!  Left the tour guides office with another Canadian (Kim) and two Americans (Steve and Victoria) at around 8:00AM this morning.  It took just about an hour to get to the start of the trail.  And then we started.  Well, I'm definitely out of shape: I wasn't sure I would actually make it....honestly.  The trail led through typical jungle found in this region until we reached 2200 metres where we broke out on to the lava fields.  From there it was straight up on loose lava scree.  The volcano was rumbling in the heights above us.  The further we got, the more common were the vent holes where stream and sulphur gases were escaping.  Jesus it was tiring.

Finally at about 12:00 noon we peaked out at the volcano's crater.  Here the ground was very warm and after 10 minutes I could feel the heat coming thru the soles of my boots.  The crater itself was hissing and spitting with two very active cones in the middle.  One cone (just like an upside down ice cream cone) was spitting rocks out constantly while the second cone was rumbling and hissing like she was ready to blow.....and every now and then, she would!!  This (the bigger cone) had a large hole in the top and it glowed with red lava.  Again, when it spit something out, it was brilliant red.  All around the volcano was steaming and every now and then the gases seem to culminate and enshroud us in highly obnoxious fumes.  It was at this time we could hardly breath and would not be able to see a hand in front of us.  After 10 minutes the time had come to get down.  Fortunately, the hike down was much easier than the hike up and we stopped 1/2 way for lunch!

This was my first experience with a truly active volcano and we were up close and personal.....how close and personal you asked??  Well, just in the crater was a lava flow that had barely harden over.  According to our guide, the swirls and crush was there for only about a week.  Apparently, the volcano was upgraded to 'Orange Status' because of its activity.  As the American said, "anywhere else in the world, we wouldn't be allowed anywhere near this thing."  This was obvious when we were in Costa Rica and went to see Volcan Arenal.  Oh....and one other thing, the volcano itself is 2565 metres high and although we didn't climb this distance, we put in a good showing!!!

DIARY ENTRY:  Sunday April 3, 2005  1:00PM:  Well it's Sunday and I've finished doing my laundry on top of my hotel roof.  It is a gorgeous sunny day and I don't expect the clothes will take long drying up there.

Yesterday (Saturday 04/02/05) morning I was up at 4:00AM to get ready for my hike up Volcan Acatenango.  This is Guatemala's 3rd highest volcano and weighs in at 1985 mertres.  Quite the impressive chunk of rock.  I get over to the tour company at 4:50AM as they are supposed to pick us up at 5:00.  No show at 5:00.....nor at 6:00, actually didn't make it until 6:20AM.  Not a good start.  We didn't get out of the city until 7:00AM.....already running two hours behind.  So a hour later we arrive at the base of the mountain and we can't see a thing.  The entire mountain is shrouded in cloud....and our guide passes us off to a local guide.....again not a good sign.

So off we went.  Straight up.  Volcanoes are not like other mountains, there are no dips and downs where a person can get their breath.  This is straight up and that's that!!!  Almost immediately I started to find my breathing being laboured.  I expect it's because I'm out of shape more than anything else, but at this altitude with no acclimatization....well things will be laboured anyway.

So Acatenango has five temperate zones.  The first one we walked thru was corn fields and pasture land.  Next we entered cloud forest, appropriately named as everything was dripping from the coulds that continued to cover us.  By this time Andrew (Canadian from Victoria) was starting to outpace me, so I told them to go on and I would do my best to keep up.  

After the cloud forest we walked into pine forest and tuff grass.  Here the slopes got reallyt steep so the path started to switchback....thank God for small miracles!  However by now the altitude was starting to kick in.  I expect I was at around 3400 metres.  Certainly high enough that the oxygen was starting to decrease.  For every 10 steps I had to stop and get my breath and my first real signs of ascending fast.....a headache.

Finally broke out of the pine forest into alpine grasses and plants.  We were still unable to see our final destination .  I was soaked from sweat and mist.  It was about 12:30 when we finally reached the lava fields and it is here we stopped for lunch.  The clouds broke long enough for me to see what I thought was the top....not so far!!   then they broke some more and revealed the actual peak....Jesus we had another 200 metres to go almost straight up lava scree.  Probably the worst thing you can climb 'cause every 3 steps you slide back 2.  By now I was beat BUT I was determined to reach the top (we had caught up with another group of 10 hikers and they stopped where we were eating and turned back).

After a lunch of avocados, bread and cream cheese we started.  By now my breathing was shot.....too fastup and not enough acclimatization.....but after a hour we peaked, just as the clouds broke.  What a view!!  Volcan Aqua on one side peaking thru the clouds and Volcan Fuego poking thru on the other side.  Although Acatenango is inactive, there were still vents poking through every few metres, so we were able to warm our hands 'cause it was chilly up there!   The mountain has a huge crater of lava scree and nothing else, except one large homemade cross at the top.

We stuck around for the required photo shoot and then we started our descent.  Two hours later we broke thru , exhausted and weak-kneed and ready for a long hot shower!!  But our driver had left the radio on and guess what?  Not a thing,.....nada...the truck wouldn't start.  Damn.  Here we are int he middle of nowhere and the fucking truck battery is dead.  I was pissed.   Two hours later we got a boost from a passing truck and finally made it home at around 7:00PM.  Agreed to meet up with Andrew for supper and I was in bed asleep by 10:30.  What a party animal for a Saturday night!!

Today is rest and relaxation and tomorrow I'm off to Lake Atitlan.

DIARY ENTRY:  Tuesday April 5, 2005  10:27AM:  Well here I am in the Guatemalan highlands and Lago de Atitlan.  Specifically, I'm staying at the Villa Sumaya near the village of Santa Cruz la Laguna.  First let me say, this resort-hotel is one of the most amazing beautiful places in the world.....bar none.  The gardens are laid out with such intrigue that around every nook and cranny is something new to see and it is situated right on one of the most gorgeous lakes that I've seen.

Yesterday (Monday 04/04/05) I took a shuttle from Antigua after taking care of some business.  My lenghtly e-mail to everyone appears not to have been received by my co-workers.  That is disappointing as I spent a considerable amount of time writing it.....twice, as I lost the first draft.  Regardless; the shuttle to Lago Atitlan takes about 2 1/2 hours and it goes the same route as Chichicastenango.

We arrived in Panajachel and immediately got a water taxi to Villa Sumaya.  After getting assigned a little cabana off the more remote part of the garden, I decided to walk the path to the hillside community of Santa Cruz la Luguna.  It's about 40 minutes and the actual village is well up the hill.

Today I plan on relaxing, doing some reading, go for a swim and maybe head into Pana to check my email.

DIARY ENTRY:  Wednesday April 6, 2005  3:48PM:  Well I got up this morning after putting in a really bad sleep.  Woke up to something flying around my room at 12:45AM and never really fell asleep after that.  Got up around 7:30AM  and after breakfast headed over to Santa Cruz for my lake dive.

The dive was pretty good considering it is fresh water.  The lake sits 1564 metres above sea level so the atmospheric pressure, as we descended, was negligible.  The dive master indicated that thewater was 22C and our dive lasted 45 minutes.  Saw some bass and other fish, a few freshwater crabs but that was it for the wildlife.  Lot's of cliff face, and at one point, we stopped to feel the volcanic vents. They were very hot.  This was my first freshwater dive and, it being inside a collapsed volcano caldera, it was about the best location.

After the dive, I grabbed a taxi into Pana to check my email.  Received one from Wayne, my brother, saying that Nan Snook pad passed away on April 2, 2005.  I guessed she was buried today.  Maybe that's the reason I didn't sleep so well.  I will miss her, she was 97, so she lived a good long life.

DIARY ENTRY:  Friday April 8, 2005  4:20PM:  Well here I am on the Las Serenas sailing on the Lago de Izabal.  

I woke up this morning at 3:30AM to catch my shuttle to Guatemala City.  From there I took a 5 1/2 bus ride to Rio Dulce.  The first thing I noticed when I got here was the heat.  It is easy to know I am on the Caribbean side of Central America, although the Pacific side is always hotter, it is never as muggy.  

There are 11 of us on the boat....8 girls and 3 guys!  So this will be home for the next 4 days.  For anyone who has not been on a catamaran before, the quarters are small.  How small you ask?  Well lets just say, very small.  I am in a bed at the front of the catamaran and that's all it is.....a bed! I can't stand up.....actually I can't even really sit up.  There is a little shelf and I've managed to squeeze my rucksack in it so all my possessions are here with me, but that's it.  Unfortunately the bathrooms are in the back so this will require my best control during the nightime.  

DIARY ENTRY:  Saturday April 9, 2005  11:40AM:  So it was an interesting sleep in my little cubby-hole.  I took a pill so I actually only had to get up twice.  This is a good thing because two of the crew members slept on the deck.  I left my latch open and keep the fan on so it wasn't so claustrophobic.

 I got up around 7:00AM and immediately took a swim and shampooed my hair (no showers on board).  After a breakfast of fruit and pancakes, we walked up to the hot springs waterfalls.  this is a pretty neat place.  The waterfalls were boiling hot thermal springs and hence it made the swimming hole very warm.  The closer you get to the falls the warmer the water got.  You could actually swim under the falls and it was so warm from the steam, that it seemed like a sauna.

Now we are steaming across the lake.  The crew is preparing dinner and the clientele is either writing in their journals or reading while sprawled out on the deck.!  I'm so lucky!

DIARY ENTRY:  Sunday April 10, 2005  2:10PM:  Well this morning started out earlier than I had planned.  I woke up around 5:30AM to use the bathroom but by this time several people were already out of bed.  I quickly changed into my swimming trunks and jumped over for a shampoo and wash.

By 6:30 the boat was on its way down the Rio Dulce towards Livingston.  We actually made that town by 7:40AM.  Our launch dropped us into the dock and we started exploring.  After maybe an hour I had had enough of the heat and looked for an internet.

After we made it back to the boat and started our trip back up the Rio Dulce.  We pulled into a tributary and I took one of the kayaks for a paddle.  This was actually neat because I made my way up to some small areas and got to see parts of Guatemala that you wouldn't normally see.  The unfortunate problem was that I couldn't take my camera with me, so I missed out on some good pictures.

We just stopped at a point in the river where there are hot springs, so we are going over there for a sit in the springs.

DIARY ENTRY:  Monday April 11, 2005  11:00AM:  Today was the end of the catamaran trip.  I slept a little and didn't actually get out of my bunk until 7:00AM.  By this time everyone was up for about an hour.  I immediately took a jump in the lake....some good!!  We had breakfast at around 7:30AM and after that I packed my gear.  We arrived back in Rio Dulce at around 10:00AM.  Bid goodbye to everyone and took the launch into town.  Within minutes I was on a chicken bus for Flores.....five hours later I arrived.

I made arrangements for my trip to Tikal and Belize and my return to Guatemala City.  Headed out from my hotel around 7:30 for a beer and supper.  I found a restaurant, the Casa Rayo de Sol, where I had "Large Jungle Rodent Fillet - Sweet and Juicy".  Well actually it was like stringy chicken but for $10 it was OK.

DIARY ENTRY:  Tuesday April 12, 2005  4:54PM: Got back from Tikal after having a hot day of climbing temples and trekking around the huge site.  I am told Tikal is different from the other Mayan sites because it is nestled in the jungle.  Arrived there around 10:30AM and immediately headed for the Great Plaza.  This is the showcase of the site with Temple I being the Temple of the Grand Jaquar.  At 44 metres high, this temple was built for the King Moon Double Comb around 734AD.  The other great temple in the Great Plaza (Temple II) comes in at 38 metres and you can climb almost to the top.

Next I headed for Temple IV and it is Tikal's highest at 64 metres high.  It was built in 741AD by King Moon Double Comb's son.  After Temple IV I go to El Mundo Perdido (the Lost World), a complex of 38 structures surrounding a huge pyramid, 32 metres high and dates from 700BC , making it the oldest Mayan structure in Tikal.  Again, from there I proceed to the Plaza of the Seven Temples, the South Acropolis and Temple V (58 metres high and built around 700AD).  I climb to the top of this one and this is worthy to note because of the steepness.  By 2:00PM the heat and humidity had done me in and I was ready to head back to Flores.  Thank God I left the Air Con on in the hotel!!